Even occasional
readers of this blog know that I’m a decided omnivore—recent posts have
included pieces about me dining on rabbits, and pythons, for example, which are
clearly not species of fruit or vegetables.
But, as always, I wanted to give the other side a try, and see for
myself what some different foods taste like.
Obviously, for some people avoiding certain species of animal for food,
or all animals, is the norm. (And vegans
take this a step further by refusing all animal products, such as dairy or
eggs, and fruitarians take it even more extremely by refusing to eat any plant
parts, save for fruit, seeds, and nuts, and stricter fruitarians won’t even
consume these unless they’ve fallen to the ground on their own (i.e., they
won’t pick them off the branch or stem.))
But here in the U.S. ,
the average person does eat meat, so calling vegetarian substitutes “exotic”
is, I think, fair. However, please don’t
take this post as a mockery of vegetarianism.
Even though I clearly don’t agree with their philosophy, I can
understand their reasons, and respect their principles. (And their commitment. I can recall a coworker of mine (Hi Rob!) who
years ago tried to be vegan in rural Tennessee/Kentucky/Virginia (the
Cumberland Cap area). If he hadn’t broken
down and eaten dairy and eggs I think he would have starved to death.)
I’ve had, and
still have, many vegetarian/vegan friends over the years, and in hanging out
with them I’ve tried several meat substitutes.
The best, by far, was the taro-based “moctopus” I had in a Manhattan restaurant
(perhaps Vegetarian Paradise?) quite a while ago (see November 25, 2012 post for more
information). I can remember thinking
that a couple of gardenburgers were okay, but that the “not dogs” were
terrible, very artificial and plastic-y tasting. But I wanted to reacquaint myself with meat
substitutes. Fortunately, I’m currently
near a Whole Foods grocery, which is renowned for its organic and vegetarian
friendly selection. So I was able to get
a pretty fair variety.
There’s a wide
range of products used for meat substitutes.
The king, of course, is the soy bean, as the tofu made from it can be
shaped and molded into approximately pretty much any type of meat. Funguses are also used, particularly
Fistalina hepatica, and Lactiporus (which is thought by some to be a good
chicken imitator). A Glenmorgan sausage
(made from cheese, leeks, and bread crumbs) is fairly old, dating back to at
least the mid 19th century.
“Mock duck” is derived from wheat gluten, oil, sugar, soy sauce, and
salt. Quorn comes from a mix of soil
molds and eggs. Other substitutes are
still being developed, and perfected.
Leaf protein concentrate is one of these. The other, more dramatic example, is the “in
vitro meat” (a.k.a. “shmeat”), which is basically test tube animal flesh,
tissue grown in a lab that has never been part of an animal. This invention, which requires fetal calf serum
cells, and stem cells, has long been a staple of science fiction stories, but
seems to be a realistic option for the future.
Some vegetarians balk at it, since it uses the fetal calf cells, while
others embrace it. (Religious dietary
lawmakers are divided on the concept as well.)
An in vitro burger was made in 2013, and taste tested. It was pronounced as being more meat-like
than any other substitute, but still somewhat lacking. (In vitro meat doesn’t, at this time anyway,
yield fat or bone tissue, so the flavor that these add is impossible to
recreate.) In vitro meat is still
absurdly expensive at this time, but perhaps in the (near?) future it will be a
viable, if weird, dining option.
But let’s get to
the food itself. As I often do, I’ll
grade these using the U.S.
scholastic system, which is F for failing, D for barely passing, C for average,
B for good, A for excellent, with pluses and minuses as required.
1) Sol
Cuisine Sprouted Quinoa Chia Sliders with sweet potato. Vegan, uses non-GMO’s, and is wheat and
gluten free. Made from quinoa (See May 1, 2014 Superfoods post), sweet potato, sunflower oil, brown rice, chia, onions, and
assorted spices: C-. Appeared as a light brown hamburger patty,
with visible plant chunks. It was okay,
not great. Edible, certainly, but didn’t
dazzle. Didn’t taste like beef, and the
texture wasn’t meat-like.
2) Engine
2 Poblano Black Bean Plant Burger.
Gluten free, non-GMO’s. Made from
black beans, brown rice, tomatoes, oats, poblano peppers, pumpkin seed,
cilantro, and spices: C. Brown patty with visible bean and pepper
chunks. Better than Sol sliders, but
still just alright. Didn’t chew or taste
like beef. Very bean-y, as advertised.
3) Go
Veggie! Pepper Jack pasteurized process cheese food alternative. No lactose, soy, or gluten. Product of skim milk protein (casein), canola
oil, rice, jalapeno and bell peppers, carageenan, and vitamins. Not really a meat substitute, admittedly, but
you get the point: C-. Looks like cheese, and texture is about
right, but the resemblance ends there.
Doesn’t taste like cheese. Way
too mild, even with the peppers. Average
at best.
4) Tofurky
Peppered. Vegan. Made of wheat gluten, tofu, soy sauce, canola
oil, corn starch, pepper, white and garbonzo beans, lemon juice, onion,
celery: F. Was brown deli slices. Tasted gross and nasty. Very plastic-y. Not like turkey at all.
5) Lightlife
Smart Deli Bologna
Style Veggie Protein Slices. Vegan. Produced from wheat gluten, soy protein, cane
syrup, carageenan, rice flour, spices:
D. Looked similar to bologna,
only a slightly darker color. Tasted
roughly bologna-ish, but had unpleasant undertaste. Sticky and pasty. Pretty bad.
6) Tofurky
Chorizo Style. Vegan, non GMO. From soy flour, canola oil, apple cider
vinegar, spices, etc. Billed as being
for quesadillas or tacos. Heated this
one up, in a microwave, as my hotel had this at least: D-. Looked
like shredded chorizo, I guess.
Marginally better than Tofurky Pepper, but not much. Hidden, but definite plastic-y taste under
the spice. It tasted “off” somehow. I just rewatched David Cronenburg’s 1986
movie remake of “The Fly” and it reminded me of the scene where Geena Davis’s
character tries steak that has been teleported, before Jeff Goldblum’s
scientist character fixes his machine.
She’s grossed out, and claims it tastes artifical.
7) Sophie’s
Kitchen Vegan Toona. Vegan, gluten and
soy free, non-GMO. Made of pea protein,
olive oil, potato starch, seaweed powder, agave nectar, apple cider vinegar,
konjac powder, ginger, and salt:
D-. This one was bizarre. Evidently they weren’t even trying to look
like tuna, but the result looked a lot like ground beef. It had more of a beefish flavor, too, and not
like tuna at all. But, to be a broken
record, this had an underlying, nasty, plastic-y quality that totally ruined
it.
So there we
go. As you can read, I wasn’t impressed
by any of them. Even the best of the
bunch, the Engine 2 burger, was only okay.
I’d still probably try different meat substitutes, but I won’t be
optimistic about the chances that I’ll like them much, if at all. Now I did enjoy the moctopus, so maybe a
vegetarian restaurant could prepare something I think is tasty. And admittedly, I was sampling non-fresh,
store bought, pre-packaged meat substitute examples. But in the unlikely event that I ever become
a vegetarian or vegan, I think I’ll stick with regular fruits and
vegetables. These meat substitutes seem
mostly to be a cruel tease, as they initially approximate a type of meat, but
ultimately, are missing something vital.
I do, though,
appreciate many of the meat substitute names.
Moctopus, tofurky, and “not dogs”, etc. amuse me. But I think my favorite is the simple, yet
funnily effective, “facon.”
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